Day Six: Stepping into Monkey King’s shoes

Just when I thought no one could top Mr. Lin, we spent the day with Mr. Sun. He lives in the hills, an hour from the Artists Village. Jeremy, Sat, and I took the subway to the last stop on the line and then a taxi.

Mr. Sun lives with his, his mother, wife, and son in a large apartment. The basement is filled with scenery for the operas he directs. The family had prepared tea and all kinds of wonderful fruit and cakes for our visit that we thought would be an hour but turned out to be four.

Mr. Sun described how he had begun his training at seven years old. Each day, at five in the morning, for an hour he stood on his hands to strengthen his arms and to build “a  dependable foundation”. His father trained him to be Monkey King as his grandfather in China had trained his father.

Mr. Sun never went to school but has a wide understanding of the arts, culture, politics, religion and a very open generous heart. Kung Fu filmmakers in Hong Kong spotted his talent and he was invited to choreograph Kung Fu films with the some of the most famous directors and actors in the business. But while he was in Hong Kong away from his children, his children became wild. He left his career in Hong Kong to return to his family. He then started an opera company in which his daughter is the star. They present operas in Taipei and throughout Taiwan. His son is a script writer. “In an opera company,” he told us, “the one who has the lead is usually the director. The director must be a good human being or the company will collapse.”

Mr. Sun graciously demonstrated Monkey King’s gestures and then transformed through make-up and costume into Monkey King. At this point, I couldn’t resist and begged him to teach us Monkey King’s walk and gestures. He was surprised at how quickly we caught on but then said, “Of course, tai ch’i is based on Monkey King.”

I asked him what he appreciated about Monkey King. He said, “Monkey King is impulsive. He is also devoted and loyal. The Tang priest knows one mudra. Monkey King knows many. Yet Monkey King serves the Tang Preist with great devotion. He will do anything for the priest. Wherever he goes, he saves the people, rescues them from the demons that are plaguing them. There is a Monkey King in each of us. You are carrying him. I can see that. That is our affinity.”

It was clear that Monkey King is alive in Taiwan. Although people may not know his Temple, for many his character continues to be an inspiration and model in the twenty-first century world.

Before we left, I asked Mr. Sun where I might purchase the crown he showed us that Kwan Yin wears. He said that he had made it . As we were leaving, his son handed me a box. Inside was the Kwan Yin’s crown. I was overcome by his generosity. His response was to assure me that I was a rare person who took Journey to the West so seriously.  He then drove us to the subway and we wandered the streets looking for a restaurant. Sat sniffed out a restaurant which was frequented by the mayor of Taipei. We celebrated and cavorted with the owner and the staff.